August 8, 2006
Peruvian Bliss

Red wood chairs, bamboo placemats and smaller tables tempt diners to enjoy a leisurely meal outdoors, while elegant masks, jugs and other artifacts reminiscent of the ancient Inca Empire, a vital part of Peruvian ancestry, sit in pyramid style nooks inside the restaurant.
El Gran Inka, 606 Crandon Blvd., is one of six franchised restaurants in Costa Rica, Guatemala, El Salvador and most recently, Key Biscayne. The Peruvian grill is owned and run by husband and wife team Claudia Carrillo and Jorge Vega.
“In Peru, it is very important the food,” says Peru born Vega. “It’s like a ceremony, if you ask a Peruvian ‘what do you miss the most?’ he will say the food.”
While Peruvian food is no new comer to Miami, much of what is available is Peruvian inspired or fusions of several types of South American cuisines. El Gran Inka brings its chefs from Le Cordon Bleu, the top culinary school in Peru, making this hot spot as authentic as it can get.
The menu is extensive and offers everything from the popular Ceviche de Mariscos, seabass, octopus, shrimp and squid marinated in lemon juice and garlic, to filet mignon to Aji de Gallina, slices of chicken prepared with a creamy sauce of nuts and parmesan cheese. There is also a small section with Chino Peruana, or Peruvian Chinese food due to the large Asian population of Peru.
Prices are reasonable especially for a seafood heavy menu. Appetizers range from $5.95 to $13.95 and the average entrée is less than $16. The Parrilla Gran Inca is the priciest option on the menu, but feeds two and includes beef, chicken, and seafood including fresh lobster and jumbo shrimp for $69.95.
El Gran Inka doesn’t have a liquor license, but the wine list offers two Peruvian wines and several other South American wines from Chile and Argentina. Bottle prices range from $25 to $320 for a Bordeaux, Chateau Mouton Rothschild. Cusquena, Peruvian beer is also available, but be sure not to miss the non alcoholic Peruvian drink specialties; Inca Cola and Chicha Morada.
The fluorescent yellow Inca Cola tastes like bubble gum and is more popular than Coca Cola in Peru. Chicha Morada is a refreshing deep purple colored juice made from purple corn, pineapple water, cinnamon, lemon and apple chunks that tastes like a combination of pomegranate juice and licorice.
The presentation is picture perfect almost making the fare too charming to eat.
Each element of the Piqueo Marino, a seafood dish with several types of ceviche meant to be shared, is arranged in individual shells placed delicately next to each other and garnished with subtly marinated red onions which compliment the cuisine.
The octopus in the Piqueo Marino is served with a delicate olive cream sauce, which matches the texture of the octopus and is not to be missed. The queen seabass ceviche is cured in lime and cilantro making it tender and delicate; a great choice for a light lunch.
Several other dishes are also great for sharing. The Ronda Criolla platter combines tenderloin, beef heart brochettes, deep fried chicken, pork and Peruvian corn called Tamalitos, a mealy, less structured version of polenta.
Even with the large portion size, you will want to save room for dessert.
The Suspiro a la Limena, reduction of milk, with a touch of port wine and meringue arrives in a parfait dish filled with a yellow custard topped with miniature white peaks and sprinkled cinnamon; a surprisingly light and creamy dessert which coats taste buds in a sweet/tart blanket.
While El Gran Inka isn’t a great choice if you are looking for a quick bite, the service is friendly, but the wait staff is still trying to work out the kinks, overall the eatery brings a very authentic slice of Peru to Key Biscayne.
El Gran Inka offers one menu for both lunch and dinner and is open Sunday through Wednesday from 12-10 p.m. and Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 12-11 p.m. Reservations are accepted, but are not typically necessary. Take out is also available.
Photo Credit: Flickr.com